Review:
Last week we looked at our mechanics. This week we can start to teach some tricks. In order to be effective, we want to train in the Goldilocks Zone. This zone lies between too easy and too hard (see image below), and its our job to find it. If our training is too easy then our dog will get bored and won’t advance. If our training is too difficult then our dog may become frustrated and not want to play. We always want to train at the level where our dog is enthusiastic and engaged. This means keep training sessions short and take lots of play breaks! My typical training session is only a few minutes long. I try to do several sessions per day.
In order to see if I’m training in the Goldilocks Zone I look at my dog’s body language. If his mouth is opened and relaxed, his head up, and his tail up then I feel that he is having fun. As we continue to practice heelwork we can gradually increase the level of difficulty and distraction. Things that were too hard in the past are now in the Goldilocks Zone.
Below is a video of Popeye and me training in a distracting environment. This would have been too difficult for him when we first learned these behaviors, but over time we gradually increase the difficulty, always checking to see that he is comfortable and enjoying the session.
In class we also learned about push-drop-stick*, a systematic way to measure our success and advance to the next level. If our dog doesn’t get it right then its on us to show them how!
- Push to the next harder level if our dog gets it right 5 out of 5 tries.
- Stick at the current level if our dog gets it right 3 or 4 out of 5 tries.
- Drop to an easier level if our dog gets it right 2 times or less out of 5 tries.
I think of training as part art and part science. Reading the dog’s body language is the art, using push-drop-stick is the science.
Movement:
As we get better at heelwork we want to “get the food out of our hand”. Lure/reward is a good way to initially teach our dog about the muscle movements of a behavior. However, once they learn the basic behavior we switch to shaping to refine the behavior. This requires that we no longer hold food in our hands. Instead, we mark the behavior (“click” or “yes”) and reward it by taking food from a treat pouch or pocket. Later we will look at using toys as a reward.
Taking more steps in heel position
In class we continued to work in a “runway” using an x-pen or against a wall. We want our dog to build up the muscle memory of walking parallel to us, and a side-wall helps them stay straight.
We want to make sure that we can take one step and have our dog maintain heel position without luring. The goal is to take one step, have your dog step with you, then mark, then reward with a treat from your treat pouch or pocket. No food in your hand! If you and your dog can do this 5 out of 5 tries, then you are ready to take two steps. If you and your dog are able to maintain heel position for two steps (5 out of 5 times) then progress to three steps, etc. Once you get to six paces, then start to randomize between one and six steps. If your dog does not maintain the heel then just reset and try again. Its OK to drop back to an easier level if you get stuck. This process may take many days, just follow push-drop-stick.
In the video below I use a yellow tape line so I can see if my dog is parallel to me. The tape is just for your reference, the dog won’t be able to see it. Anyway, we want them looking at us and not at the ground!
Spin
We used luring to teach a spin. Start with your dog in front of you. Have several treats in your left hand. Lure your dog counter-clockwise, give them a treat at each quarter turn to get them into the game. You can reduce the number of treats you use for the spin as they catch on. See below:
We used luring to teach a spin. Start with your dog in front of you. Have several treats in your left hand. Lure your dog counter-clockwise, give them a treat at each quarter turn to get them into the game. You can reduce the number of treats you use for the spin as they catch on. See below:
In the above exercise we just wanted our dogs to learn the muscle memory of a spin. Once they get it we can use an x-pen to teach a spin in heel position:
Leg weave
We start the leg weave by luring. Have one treat in each hand. Get your dog into heel position. Have your feet together. Take a step with your right foot. Lure with the left hand to get the dog between your legs. Then use the right hand to lure them to your right side. Do the mirror image when your dog is in the switch position (right side heel).
We start the leg weave by luring. Have one treat in each hand. Get your dog into heel position. Have your feet together. Take a step with your right foot. Lure with the left hand to get the dog between your legs. Then use the right hand to lure them to your right side. Do the mirror image when your dog is in the switch position (right side heel).
The next phase is to only lure with the opposite hand. If you can get 5 our of 5 then use an empty opposite hand and feed from your bait bag or pocket. Gradually minimize your opposite hand movement. This hand movement will eventually be your hand cue.
Platforms:
We used a platform to help our dogs learn about the heel position. Toss reset treats behind you so that your dog has an easy approach onto the platform. Use fast food to build value in the heel position.
Shaping a heel using a platform:
Homework:
1. Continue heeling:
- Work on increasing the number of steps in your heel exercise. If you and your dog can do a single step in heel five times in a row then push to two steps. If you can heel for two steps five times in a row then push to three steps. Continue until your dog can maintain heel for six steps.
- Once you can heel for six steps (five times in a row) you can start to randomize your steps. Sometimes do two step, sometimes, five steps, etc. This will teach your dog to focus on you while heeling. The predictor of getting a reward doesn’t depend on the number of steps you take, but rather maintaining heel position.
2. Spin:
- Practice a spin (counter clockwise) in heel position. Use a curved x-pen on your left side like we did in class or practice near a wall. If you can get a lured spin 5 out of 5 times then use an empty hand. Gradually minimize your hand movement until it becomes your hand signal cue. See video in the Review section above.
3. Leg weave:
- Practice some lured leg weaves (see video in Review section above). If you can get 5 out of 5 with a lure then push to using an empty hand. Work your way up to using a minimized hand signal. Eventually your opposite hand movement will become the hand signal for a ‘weave’. (i.e. dog on your left, take a step with your right leg and then cue with your right hand).
4. Practice heel position on a platform:
- Setup your platform for a heel position. Toss a reset treat behind you so that your dog approaches the platform in a straight line from “6 o’clock” (see picture below). If your dog gets into heel position 5 out of 5 tries when you toss the reset treat behind you, then start changing the direction of your reset toss behind and to the left (i.e. 7 o’clock). This will teach your dog to get into heel position even when they approach from the side. Eventually you can toss the reset treat at 11 o’clock so that your dog approaches from a steep angle and still gets into heel position.
Here is an example of “working the clock” in heel position from 6 o’clock (toss behind you) to 11 o’clock (toss in front and to the left). Its more challenging for your dog to get into heel position from 11 o’clock because they have to spin their body more.
Remember to keep your sessions short. Maybe do a two minute session in the morning and a couple more two minute sessions in the evening. I often train during TV commercials. Once the show comes back on my dog and I move back to the couch. A few minutes of training per day will go a long way!
References:
* Train Your Dog Like a Pro by Jean Donaldson
* Train Your Dog Like a Pro by Jean Donaldson